Much like the legendary city of Rome, Pula was built on seven hills, a testament to its deep Roman heritage and strategic geographic planning. This topography was no coincidence—Roman urban planners often selected elevated terrains to construct settlements for better defense, visibility, and drainage.

The seven hills of Pula are Kaštel, Monte Ghiro, Monte Zaro, Monte Paradiso, Monte Sergijevac, Monte Tondo, and Monte Vidikovac. These natural elevations shaped the city’s urban layout and provided commanding views of the surrounding sea and land, making Pula an ideal location for both military and civic development.

Today, these hills still form the backbone of Pula’s structure and charm, offering scenic viewpoints, ancient ruins, and quiet residential areas that blend history with everyday life. Exploring Pula’s seven hills is like walking through layers of time—from Roman fortresses to Austro-Hungarian buildings and modern neighborhoods.

This unique geographical feature not only connects Pula to its Roman roots but also adds to its distinctive character as a city where history rises from every corner—literally.

Few landmarks in the world blend ancient grandeur with modern vitality quite like the Pula Arena. Towering over the city for more than 2,000 years, this Roman amphitheater stands as one of the best-preserved examples of its kind anywhere in the world — and it has more stories to tell than you might expect.

While many associate Roman amphitheaters with the Colosseum in Rome, what most people don’t realize is that Pula’s Arena is actually older. Construction began during the reign of Emperor Augustus and was later expanded under Emperor Vespasian, the same emperor responsible for Rome’s Colosseum. Its stones have witnessed centuries of history, from roaring gladiator battles to the peaceful glow of evening concerts.

Built entirely from the famous white limestone of Istria, the Arena was a masterpiece of Roman engineering. Unlike many other ancient structures, it still retains all four of its original towers. Each tower once served a functional purpose — with water storage, passageways, and mechanisms used to raise the arena’s iconic sunshade system (called the velarium), which kept spectators cool under the Mediterranean sun.

Walking through the Arena today, you’re not just stepping into a monument — you’re stepping into living history. Below the stage lie ancient underground chambers where gladiators prepared for combat and wild animals were kept before being released into the arena. These same spaces now host a fascinating exhibition on Roman winemaking and olive oil production, including original amphorae and tools used nearly two millennia ago.

Another lesser-known chapter in the Arena’s past? In the Middle Ages, stones from the structure were repurposed to build houses and fortifications around Pula. Fortunately, this was stopped in the 13th century by a decree from the Venetian Senate, preserving the Arena for future generations.

One of the most unique aspects of the Pula Arena is its continued use as a performance space. With seating for over 7,000 people today (once over 20,000 in Roman times), the Arena regularly hosts concerts, film screenings, and cultural festivals. There’s something incredibly magical about watching a modern symphony or cinematic premiere under the stars in a venue that once echoed with the clash of swords.

From ancient battles to modern music, the Arena has always been a gathering place — a symbol of the city’s resilience and cultural heartbeat. If you visit Pula, don’t just pass by it — step inside, look around, and let history speak to you.

Exploring the Secret Tunnels of Zerostrasse

While Pula’s Roman ruins tell stories above ground, an entirely different world lies just beneath your feet a hidden network of tunnels carved into the city’s limestone core. Known as Zerostrasse, these underground passages date back to the early 20th century and were built during the Austro-Hungarian Empire as a wartime shelter system.

Originally constructed as a military defense project, the tunnels were designed to protect thousands of people in case of air raids or bombings during World War I. Equipped with ventilation shafts and multiple entry points around the city, they were a marvel of engineering at the time a silent but powerful reminder of Pula’s strategic military importance.

Stretching from the heart of the city below the hill of Kaštel (the Venetian fortress), the tunnels are surprisingly spacious, with enough room to walk freely and even host exhibitions today. Thick stone walls keep them cool year-round, creating a slightly eerie but fascinating atmosphere as you move through their dimly lit corridors.

In recent years, this once-secret world has been opened to the public. Visitors can now explore sections of the tunnel system that have been carefully preserved and transformed into a unique historical attraction. Informational panels along the way explain their purpose and history, while temporary art and cultural exhibitions often bring a new layer of life to this underground labyrinth.

Stepping into Zerostrasse is like walking into a hidden chapter of the city’s past one shaped not by emperors and gladiators, but by soldiers, citizens, and the sobering realities of war. It’s a stark contrast to the sun-soaked plazas and ancient temples above, but that’s what makes it so memorable.

Whether you’re a history lover, an architecture buff, or simply curious about what lies beneath, Zerostrasse offers a perspective on Pula few tourists expect and even fewer forget.

The Timeless Grace of the Temple of Augustus

Right in the heart of Pula’s old town, overlooking the lively Forum Square, stands one of the most elegant Roman monuments in Croatia the Temple of Augustus. With its graceful Corinthian columns and perfectly symmetrical facade, this ancient temple has withstood centuries of change, war, and even partial destruction, yet continues to embody the legacy of a once-powerful empire.

Built between 2 BC and 14 AD, the temple was originally dedicated to Emperor Augustus, Rome’s first emperor and Julius Caesar’s adopted heir. After his death, Augustus was deified — elevated to godlike status — a common practice in Roman tradition for emperors seen as having served the state with honor and success. Temples like this one were constructed throughout the Roman Empire to celebrate his memory and divine status.

What makes the Temple of Augustus in Pula especially remarkable is not only its state of preservation but its continuous life through the ages. Over the centuries, it transformed from a place of imperial worship to a church, then later a granary, and today serves as a lapidarium housing ancient stone sculptures and inscriptions.

Despite being partially destroyed during a World War II bombing, the temple was meticulously restored, stone by stone, to its original design. Its survival is a testament to the city’s deep connection to its Roman heritage and its dedication to preserving the past for future generations.

As you walk through Forum Square and stand in its shadow, it’s easy to imagine the days when toga-clad citizens gathered to honor their emperor. Today, the Temple of Augustus continues to inspire not just as a historical landmark, but as a symbol of resilience, timeless architecture, and cultural continuity.

Echoes of Empire in Every Corner

Long before it became a sun-soaked destination for travelers, Pula was at the very heart of a powerful maritime empire. During the late 19th and early 20th centuries, this coastal city served as the main naval base of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, transforming Pula into a fortified, bustling hub of military and industrial activity.

Strategically positioned at the southern tip of the Istrian Peninsula, Pula offered a natural deep-water harbor that was ideal for a powerful fleet. It wasn’t just a base it was the empire’s naval command center, home to shipyards, arsenals, military schools, and even an observatory. The Austro-Hungarian navy built coastal batteries, underwater minefields, and an extensive tunnel network (Zerostrasse), all still visible today in various forms.

The naval legacy is etched into the city’s landscape. Walk along the harbor and you’ll notice the grand architecture of former military buildings, stately villas once used by officers, and industrial infrastructure repurposed for modern life. The Uljanik Shipyard, one of the oldest in the world still in operation, dates back to this very period.

This period also left behind a unique cultural mix. The influx of engineers, officers, and workers from across the empire from Vienna to Prague, Budapest to Trieste gave Pula a cosmopolitan identity that still lingers in its character and cuisine.

Today, while the battleships are long gone, the aura of naval power remains. From the Maritime Museum housed in the old fortress to the Light Giants the illuminated cranes of the shipyard Pula’s naval past continues to shape the spirit of the city.

The tradition of producing wine and olive oil in the region around Pula dates back over two thousand years, all the way to Roman times. Roman settlers recognized the region’s ideal climate, fertile soil, and gentle hills as perfect conditions for cultivating olive trees and vineyards. Historical records and archaeological findings — including ancient amphorae, olive presses, and wine cellars — confirm that Istria was one of the empire’s prized agricultural zones.

Olive oil from Istria was once exported across the Roman Empire, praised for its clarity and rich flavor. In fact, Roman writer Pliny the Elder listed Istrian oil among the best in the Mediterranean. Wine from the region also traveled widely, with amphorae bearing local stamps discovered as far as France, Egypt, and the UK.

Today, that legacy lives on. Istrian olive oils and wines consistently win international awards, competing with the finest products from Italy, France, and Spain. Modern producers have blended ancient methods with modern expertise, crafting high-quality extra virgin olive oils and wines such as Malvazija and Teran Istria’s signature varieties.

Visitors to Pula and the surrounding countryside can explore this living heritage by touring vineyards and olive groves, tasting locally produced delicacies, and discovering why Istria is once again being hailed as one of the best wine and olive oil regions in the world.

Before he became one of the most influential writers of the 20th century, James Joyce spent a brief but fascinating chapter of his life in Pula. In 1904, the young Irishman arrived in the city to teach English at the Berlitz School long before his fame as the author of Ulysses and Dubliners.

At the time, Pula was the main naval port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire a bustling, multilingual city full of sailors, military personnel, and cultural contrasts. Though Joyce reportedly found the city dull compared to his native Dublin, his time here marked an important personal and professional transition. It was in Pula that he settled into a routine with his partner Nora Barnacle, and it was also here that he began to sharpen his literary ambitions.

Today, Joyce is remembered in Pula with a commemorative statue at Uliks Café, located in the very building where he once taught. Visitors can sit beside the bronze figure, enjoy a coffee, and reflect on the strange twist of fate that brought a literary giant to the Istrian coast — if only for a short time.

Just a short boat ride from Pula lies an extraordinary cultural experience the Ulysses Theatre, set within the stone walls of the abandoned Fort Minor on Mali Brijun Island. What was once a 19th-century Austro-Hungarian military fortress has been transformed into an open-air stage that hosts thought-provoking theatre, music, and art performances during the summer season.

Founded in 2001 by renowned Croatian actor Rade Šerbedžija and playwright Borislav Vujčić, the Ulysses Theatre has gained international acclaim for its powerful performances, dramatic setting, and commitment to social and political dialogue. Audiences sit under the stars surrounded by thick pine forests and centuries-old stonework, with views of the sea whispering just beyond the stage.

This blend of untouched nature, history, and contemporary performance art creates an atmosphere unlike any other. The experience is both intimate and grand where cannon walls echo lines from Shakespeare, Beckett, and Balkan poets alike. The journey to the theatre, including the boat ride from Fažana, becomes part of the performance, inviting reflection, anticipation, and awe.

Whether you’re a theatre enthusiast or a curious traveler, visiting the Ulysses Theatre is a rare chance to witness how art breathes new life into forgotten places — making history feel alive once more.

One of the first cinemas in Europe was established in Pula in 1896, the very same year the Lumière brothers held their first public film screening in Paris. This makes Pula one of the earliest adopters of cinema on the continent.

The first known cinema in Pula was called “Kinematograf Edison”, named after Thomas Edison, whose inventions also contributed to early film technology. It was set up by itinerant exhibitors who brought moving pictures to curious local audiences, projecting short films in makeshift venues before permanent cinemas were built.

By the early 20th century, cinema culture was already thriving in Pula, with venues like “Cinema Minerva” and “Cinema Marine” becoming popular spots for entertainment.

Pula’s early embrace of the cinematic arts is just another example of how this historic city has always been in step with cultural innovation a legacy that continues today through events like the Pula Film Festival, one of the oldest film festivals in Europe.

A Hidden Military Legacy of Pula

Pula is surrounded by an extraordinary network of over 40 Austro-Hungarian fortresses, bunkers, batteries, and military towers making it one of the most fortified cities in Europe. Built mainly in the 19th century, these structures formed a defensive ring around what was then the empire’s most important naval port.

The fortresses were strategically positioned across hilltops, coastlines, and forested areas, forming layers of protection from both land and sea. Today, many are still standing — some fully preserved, others crumbling into the landscape offering a fascinating glimpse into the city’s past.

Notable examples include Fort Bourguignon and Fort Punta Christo, both massive coastal forts that once held heavy artillery. While Punta Christo has been transformed into a venue for music festivals, others like Fort Verudela now host public attractions like the Pula Aquarium. The central Kaštel fortress, overlooking the city, has been converted into a museum with panoramic views.

Though some forts remain abandoned or hidden in wooded areas, others are gradually being revived as cultural spaces. Together, they form a silent monument to Pula’s strategic significance and its rich, layered history.

Standing proudly on the Verudela peninsula, just south of Pula, is a maritime marvel with historical significance the Verudela Lighthouse. Built in 1877 during the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it holds the distinction of being the very first lighthouse on the eastern Adriatic coast.

For nearly 150 years, this lighthouse has guided ships safely through the Istrian waters, making it not just a beacon of light but also of heritage. Surrounded by pine trees and perched above rocky shores, the structure blends functionality with scenic beauty. Today, it continues to operate, offering both a glimpse into maritime history and a peaceful coastal view for visitors who stroll along Pula’s southern cliffs.

Whether you’re a history lover, a maritime enthusiast, or simply seeking a serene viewpoint — the Verudela Lighthouse is a timeless landmark worth discovering.

An Engineering Marvel from the Roman Empire

Pula’s ancient water system is one of the lesser-known but truly impressive examples of Roman ingenuity. Developed during the height of the Roman Empire, likely in the 1st century AD, this aqueduct network was constructed to supply the growing city with a steady and reliable source of fresh water.

The aqueduct system was believed to have been commissioned under the rule of Emperor Augustus or his successors as part of the broader urban development of Pula (then Pola). Like many Roman cities, access to clean water was essential for maintaining hygiene, public health, and the luxurious lifestyle of Roman citizens — including public baths, fountains (nymphaeum), and private villas.

How It Worked
The system collected water from natural springs and higher elevations near the city (likely from the hills north of Pula) and transported it downhill using gravity. It consisted of covered channels, stone and brick conduits, underground pipes made from terracotta or lead, and water towers that regulated flow and pressure.

Portions of these channels can still be seen today, especially near Kaštel (Pula Castle Hill), and beneath the Twin Gates area. You might also spot traces of carved stone or channels along some archaeological sites around the old town.

Why It’s Important
These aqueduct remnants are a testament to how advanced Roman engineering was more than 2,000 years ago. They didn’t just build for function — they built for permanence. While the structures have aged, they still provide insight into ancient urban planning, architectural precision, and the Roman emphasis on civic infrastructure.

Today, these remnants are protected as part of Pula’s rich archaeological heritage and serve as a fascinating stop for those interested in history, architecture, or engineering.

Pula’s City Market dates back to the early 20th century: construction began in 1902 under Austro-Hungarian rule, and the grand iron-and-glass hall opened its doors in 1903—making it well over 120 years old today. From the moment its prefabricated iron trusses, shipped all the way from the Witkowice Ironworks in Bohemia, were bolted into place, the market stood out as an architectural marvel in Istria. Its lofty semi-circular arches and expansive glass panes flooded the interior with light long before electric lighting became standard, and even now, those original wrought-iron details complete with faint Czech factory stamps survive beneath layers of paint.

Inside, the market’s two-level layout quickly became a hub of daily life. On the ground floor, fishmongers would thaw blocks of river ice from a hidden vault beneath the stone slabs, chilling Adriatic catches until late afternoon. A single iron hatch in the floor still hints at that bygone refrigeration trick. Above, a sweeping stone staircase led shoppers and vendors to a gallery lined with fruit and vegetable stalls. It was said that anyone strolling the upper floor could see the comings and goings on Narodni trg while smelling the mingling scents of fresh produce, cured meats, and pine-scented sea breezes.

Over the decades, Pula’s City Market quietly accumulated stories. Original cast-iron price plaques—stamped in Croatian, Italian, and German—testify to a time when three languages mingled in everyday commerce. During World War I, naval officers reputedly climbed into a small, camouflaged hatch in the roof to scan Kvarner Bay for enemy ships—an unlikely lookout in what most thought of as merely a place to buy cheese. Despite two world wars, a shifting roster of political regimes, and the march of modern refrigeration, the market never closed. A careful restoration in 1998 preserved its Secession-style elegance while installing contemporary utilities, and today, locals still haggle over olive oil, sip coffee in the adjacent cafés, and linger among stalls whose iron columns have supported generations of Istrian life. In this way, Pula’s 120-year-old market hall remains far more than a relic—it is the living, beating heart of a city that has thrived on trade, culture, and the quiet endurance of iron and glass.

Pula’s apothecary heritage stretches back to the mid-14th century. In fact, a town ledger from 1353 mentions a licensed “apothecarius” working in Pula—making it one of the earliest independent pharmacies along the eastern Adriatic and among Europe’s oldest public dispensaries. At that time, Pula thrived as a crossroads of Venetian sea routes and inland trade roads, so its pharmacist stocked both local ingredients (Istrian honey, wild herbs gathered in nearby hills) and exotic imports like spikenard or gentian root brought by merchants from Venice, Aquileia, and beyond.

Through the Black Death and other hardship periods, this medieval pharmacy played a vital role: the apothecary would blend ointments, syrups, and poultices according to recipes written in Latin or Italian. These formulas often fused time-tested Venetian guild methods with homegrown Istrian remedies—lavender from local fields, sage, and other botanicals thought to relieve fevers and infections. Although the original 14th-century building no longer stands intact (it has been renovated or rebuilt several times), Pula’s claim to hosting a pharmacy first documented in 1353 remains indisputable. By the late 1300s and early 1400s, municipal statutes required pharmacists here to be formally approved—decades before similar licensing rules appeared farther north in Italy or central Europe.

Today, you can still wander the narrow lanes of Pula’s old town, near present-day Narodni trg, and sense the echoes of that pioneering apothecary. The modern structure has changed over the centuries, but inside you might catch sight of faded plaques or archival fragments bearing the name “Apoteca Pulae” alongside old Latin-script recipe notations—quiet reminders that this coastal city was preparing cures long before many of its European neighbors.